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		| propsjonnyb Community Member
 
 
 Joined: 16 Jul 2009
 Posts: 476
 Location: Helmdon, Northamptonshire  UK
 
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				|  Posted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 9:32 am    Post subject: Blade Runner Blaster Electroplating  Costs |   |  
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				| As many forum members may  know I've been experimenting with electroplating the parts to the  Blade Runner Blaster as has Rich  and  I'm pleased say that  I can  now successfully offer  the  service to obviously  UK forum members , but also to anyone else anywhere in the  world customs restrictions  permitting, a way round this is to ship it in part consignments. 
 The service works along these lines,  you polish and finish any part or combination of parts or a complete blaster to your own satisfaction  - the  point to remember here is  the better  the polish and finish the  better your electroplating will be ! and then send it to me ,  I will electroplate  your  part , combination of parts  or full blaster , and  'Blue' the  part  if required , just for the  cost of the  chemicals needed - I will hand polish  pack and ship it  back  to you FOC -you ONLY pay for the  chemicals used ,  as costs are based on surface area per  fluid oz  used.
 
 As pewter is  not an easy material to plate ,each part will be plated  with  a base of Copper first  and then Nickel , as  Nickel will  'Blue' successfully  - I will 'Parkerize'  (which is a permanent  finish  many professional gunsmiths use),  any  piece, pieces or complete set,   FREE OF CHARGE on request.
 for example : -
 
 an upper receiver  will cost  £58UKP  or  $85USD  and is the single  most expensive part as it's the  largest surface area
 
 a barrel will cost  £10 UKD  or  $ 15USD
 
 a full set of  electroplated & Blued parts will cost £160 UKP  or $235USD
 
 The turn around on average will be approximately a week
 
 A full breakdown  of all parts and costs , in a variety of plate finishes including  precious metals -  real silver and  24kt gold  is available  on request PM me  for details
 
 More shots of  finished parts and  other  items eg badges  will be  posted on the forum pages  and  I will produce  a photo album  of all individual parts and complete finished  blasters  in a variety of plate finishes in due course.
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		| racprops Community Member
 
  
 Joined: 30 Oct 2006
 Posts: 2450
 Location: Phoenix AZ
 
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				|  Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 1:29 pm    Post subject: |   |  
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				| Darn that has me beat all to heck, all I can get is nickle and chrome plating. 
 Now I may have to ship parts to you.
 
 Rich
 _________________
 I never have enough time to do all I want to do!
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		| propsjonnyb Community Member
 
 
 Joined: 16 Jul 2009
 Posts: 476
 Location: Helmdon, Northamptonshire  UK
 
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				|  Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 8:47 am    Post subject: |   |  
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				| Some photos in the  Blaster Build Progress  thread ,showing plated  upper receiver and plated barrels, others to follow! |  |  
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		| eltee Community Member
 
 
 Joined: 31 Oct 2006
 Posts: 437
 Location: West Coast USA
 
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				|  Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 1:40 pm    Post subject: |   |  
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				| Would you be willing, for a fee, to clean up and prep (polish) an upper receiver inc. bolt handle prior to having it blued? My goal is to have an "as issued" looking blaster. It is currently an RAC all-metal Worldcon. 
 Also, has anyone ever removed the painted finish on the pre-Worldcon versions?  I have an earlier version RAC all-metal blaster with the painted receiver which I'd also love to have polished and blued.
 
 Are you using a hot blue? Are you using a park dip tank?
 
 Incredible work you've done, and thank you for offering to help us out.
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		| propsjonnyb Community Member
 
 
 Joined: 16 Jul 2009
 Posts: 476
 Location: Helmdon, Northamptonshire  UK
 
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				|  Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 4:49 pm    Post subject: |   |  
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				| Hi Eltee,  to answer your  questions  - yes I would  at the  quoted  prices as I am  only  concerned about  having  to  buy in  the  chemicals,   the  work/labour  go  free ,    I can also  chemically  strip the  paint  back to  bare metal so no  problems !.   No it's  not a hot  blue  process  ( nasty stuff!) , it's   a unique  cold  park dip tank method  , it's a four step  process , clean ( 5 min) , condition ( 3 min),   Parkerize/black ( 15 to  20  depending  on depth of colour)  and  seal  ( 2 mins + 30 minutes rack drying  time -  and takes about  45 mins  to an  hour  to complete end to  end . 
 Here's  a work in progress shot  of  a  plated  Sidkit  2006 Worldcon  build  , the  gunframe,  inner and outer handles, trigger guard,  barrel and upper  reciever  are all electroplated  pewter , parkerized .   The  Weaver slotted Screw and WW2 post  are also  parkerized .
 
 
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		| propsjonnyb Community Member
 
 
 Joined: 16 Jul 2009
 Posts: 476
 Location: Helmdon, Northamptonshire  UK
 
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				|  Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 5:51 pm    Post subject: |   |  
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				| For those that have asked ,  can  I 'parkerize' pewter directly  the  answers is " Yes you  can"   however ,  what you  get is dependant on the alloy  mix used in the  casting process, so  almost  all colours  from deep chocolate  brown  ( high copper content ) to purple- black ( high tin  content) are possible ,  it all depends  how long  the  piece gets in the  tank - and again for those that asked , I will parkerize for a set  fee of £40 UKD  that's  $60 USD  a single  shipment  of  fully  polished blaster pieces or  single parts  - what  I will not  guarantee is that  you'll get  them all  back exactly the  same colour  ( even pieces cast at the  same time colour up -differently  !) , the  deal goes  you  ship  -I Parkerize  pay  Fee = I ship back !  , what  I will try to  achieve is the  best possible  colour match between pieces  dependant on what you  specify.     I can ony  guarantee  the  colour match on any  piece or  pieces  I plate first then parkerize those  charges are listed in another post here. |  |  
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		| racprops Community Member
 
  
 Joined: 30 Oct 2006
 Posts: 2450
 Location: Phoenix AZ
 
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				|  Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 8:34 pm    Post subject: |   |  
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				| I only used a clear coat to stop the black from rubbing off. 
 So it was a treaded metal with just a clear coat over it.
 
 A good lacquer thinner or acetone will strip it right off.
 
 Rich
 _________________
 I never have enough time to do all I want to do!
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